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(Part # 1) Wall Hangar:
Select the spot where the rollformed
wall hangar will mount to the wall. Draw a level horizontal line on the wall
for positioning the rollformed "C" channel (wall hangar). To
determine the height of the wall hangar, allow a 1/4" to 1/2" slope
from the wall to the Front facia gutter. "Preset" the hangar in
place with a couple of nails if possible to hold it in alignment. Place a
3" long screw approximately every foot. If required for exceptionally
long awnings, the wall hangar must be "spliced" simply by snipping
two 3/4" deep slices on one piece of the hangar where it will overlap the
first piece of hangar. The "snips" should be made at the 90 degree
turns on the hangar. After mounting the wall hangar, caulk it on the top where
the wall meets the hangar.
(Part # 2) Front Fascia Gutter:
If required for exceptionally long
awnings, the front facia gutter must be "spliced" by utilizing the
splice(s) (Part # 2a) contained in your kit. Keeping the front facia gutter
reasonably level, line up the 2 or more front facia gutter pieces on the
ground and slide the splice in place to check for fit and alignment.
Temporarily remove splice and caulk it generously and then replace it in the
gutter. Screw this splice in place with 12 self-tapping screws. 8 of the
screws should be placed in the trim recess provided on the "face" of
the gutter and 4 of them should be used on the other side as shown below.
Front Fascia Gutter and Side Fascia
Assembly:
(For installation purposes, we will
label the left and right side of the patio cover, awning, or carport as if you
were to stand away from the structure and look at it. In this view, the patio
cover, awning, or carport would be between you and the structure to which it
is attached.)
With Gutter (Part # 2) set on ground,
using self-tapping screws, attach both the left side facia (Part # 3) and the
right side fascia (Part # 4) to either end of the facia gutter. The side
fascias are designed to be "pressed" into place and then screwed to
the gutter. Do not install the end caps yet. Apply a generous amount of
caulking to the small blue foam blocks (Part # 5) and "press" them
squarely into place in the corners of the gutter where the side and front
facias intersect. Lay out the posts near the ground anchors where they will be
installed. At this time it is a very good idea to place a mark at every 1-foot
interval (beginning at either end) along the very top of the front facia
gutter. You will use these marks to align the awning pans and thereby prevent
the installation of a "fan" shaped product. Starting each time from
the same end of the awning, Place an identical set of marks on the under side
of the wall hangar and the the gutter for easy visibility. With the help of
one or more assistants (depending on the size of your awning) hoist the
perimeter (both the front and 2 side facias) into place and support it
temporarily with ladders or wooden braces.
Attach both of the side facias to the
wall hangar using self-tapping screws.
(Part # 6) Post Brackets,Bolts, and
Posts (Part # 7):
Determine where you would like your
posts to be located on the front gutter assembly. Give us a call and we'll
discuss the easiest method to use for your situation. Next,
drill two 3/8" holes in the bottom of the gutter to mount the post
brackets to the gutter using the slotted head bolts and placing a well caulked
fender washer in the interior of the gutter for each hole. Secure the bracket
to the gutter with the nuts. Place the gutter in position on the ground to be
used as a template for the location of the posts. BE SURE TO TAKE INTO
CONSIDERATION THE DISTANCE AWAY FROM THE WALL HANGAR AND THE SLOPE OF THE
AWNING. You might want to elevate the end nearest the structure to allow for
the slope calculation. This can be done at ground level using the wall your
hangar is attached to as a starting point or by using a plumb from the hangar
to the ground if the hangar is attached to an eave. After locating the
position of the bottom of the posts, mark the spot and either fasten the post
bracket to concrete with the anchors provided, the deck with bolts, or dig
appropriate size holes for the use of "deadmen". (Deadmen are not
provided in the normal kits, but are available at a reasonable cost. If you
are going to need them, please let us know at the time of ordering).
Set the posts and check the gutter for
levelness. In most cases, one or more posts must be cut to achieve a level
gutter assembly. Remember it's real easy to cut the posts down in size, but
VERY difficult to make them longer !! In cases of longer awnings where there
are 2 or more downspout assemblies, the center of the awning can be slightly
elevated in order to facilitate proper drainage to all the downspouts. When
you are satisfied with the horizontal levelness of the front gutter, secure
the posts with the nuts and bolts provided. Remember that the self tapping
screws are used for the extruded front and side facia pieces and to attach the
pans to them, whereas the sheet metal screws are used to attach rollformed
material to rollformed material such as the awning pans to the wall hangar.
"Square" up the awning perimeter by temporarily installing an awning
pan about every 6 to 10 feet. ! This is IMPORTANT !
(Part # 8) Awning Pan Installation:
The pans should be placed as squarely
and as deep as possible into the wall hangar channel. Also the other end of
the pan should rest approximately 1/4" past the interior lip of the
gutter assembly. This 1/4" overhang facilitates proper drainage into the
gutter and allows for cleaning of the gutter. With the perimeter installed and
squared up, start installing the awning pans on the left side of the awning
(left is determined by facing the structure to which the awning is being
attached) The edge of the very first and the very last pan ride in the upper
slot of the extruded side facias. You may need to "squeeze" the pans
slightly as you go in order to stay on the marks you have placed on the wall
hangar and the gutter. The pans are designed to interlock by
"rolling" the edge of each consecutive pan into the lock of
previously installed pan. Screw down each pan as you go and pay attention to
your spacing marks as you progress. Continue installing panels and reuse your
"temporary" stabalizing panels as you go. Occasionally check both
corners for squareness. If a correction needs to be made, do it immediately,
as the awning becomes stronger with each screw that is applied! When all
awning pans are securely fastened in place, screw both the far left and the
far right pans to the extruded side facias using self-tapping screws.
(Part # 9) Flashing:
Depending on you situation, you may want
to caulk your flashing installation both before and after you install the
flashing. Install the flashing to the structure by tucking it under the
existing roofing material or edge metals if possible and screwing it to the
awning ONLY ON THE VERY TOP OF THE INTERLOCKS of the awning pans. This
will provide a screw every TWO feet on the top of the awning. Caulk where
necessary. Apply caulking over all exposed screw heads on the top of the
awning. If you are installing your unit directly underneath an overhang
projecting 12" or more from the structure and the unit will be installed
within 5 inches of the underside height of the overhang, the flashing is not
normally needed. Ask us if you have any questions.
Downspout kits:
The downspout kit includes a drop elbow
(Part # 10), a 10' section of downspout (Part # 11), and an elbow (Part # 12).
With a level, determine which way the water will run in the gutter. At the
lowest location on your awning gutter, place the drop elbow on the underside
of the gutter (as close to a post as possible) and hold the assembly in place
while you mark the underside of the gutter for the installation of the drop
elbow. Trace the interior hole and screw holes of the drop elbow. Using a hole
cutter or a series of drill bit holes, create a drain for the gutter into the
center of the flange. Caulk the flange and using self-tapping screws, install
the drop elbow on to the gutter. Install the downspout with 2 sheetmetal
screws onto the drop elbow. The elbow should slide inside the downspout.
Attach the strap and bottom elbow with sheetmetal screws.
(Part # 13) Color Trim Strips:
Attaching the color trim strip is an
easy procedure but it requires a little patience to avoid putting unsightly
dents in the material. You may want to start this procedure in an area that
receives little visual exposure as for some of us; it takes a little practice
to get the hang of it. The trim is installed from a roll and is
"pressed" into place. Place the roll on the top of the awning and
unroll about 6 to 8 feet at a time. Place the bottom edge of the trim into one
of the two channels on the exterior of the facias and starting at the end,
"run" your fingernail or some other "non-marring"
instrument along the top edge while "snapping the trim coil into place.
Cut the end to fit and repeat the step for all trim pieces.
Corner Pieces:
(Part # 14) The corner pieces are
installed by pre-drilling them at about a 1" offset (see the diagram)
and using self-tapping screws to penetrate the perimeter extrusions and the
end caps.
